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Knit Top


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Doesn’t it seem that everyplace you look, there is another Top Ten list?

Just turn on your TV, and there goes Jennifer Aniston, or Brad Pitt, and, even persons like Marilyn Monroe, still seen posing on the red carpet, always being talked in regards to as in the Top Ten!

Food shows, home shows, boat shows, MTV, Letterman, you name it, everyone has a Top Ten list!

So, for the record, let there be a Top Ten for knitting, too!

Knitting has scads of abbreviations, so some in fact, you may lose yourself in the art of initialism.

Some abbreviations are employed so seldom as to be almost unknown, “won”, for instance, means “wool over needle”, which I have never seen before!

Any time you are working with a knitting pattern, these abbreviations are sure to be there. Now, you will know what they mean!

So, take heart! The most necessary ones are as follows:

(and for good reason, as you will shortly find out –)

#10 — sl – means “slip”. As in slip the next stitch from the left needle to the right. You do not see this abbreviation too much, but, if you are working in a lacy pattern, it will be there. Also, any time a pattern calls for variations, “sl” may be one of the abbreviations used.

#9 — beg – means “beginning”. Usually when determining length, you will see this used. Most patterns have you measuring length from the beginning, but, some patterns measure from other areas such as ribbing, or shoulder, or neck.

#8 — RS – and no those aren’t my husband’s initials, (well, not in this guise, anyway). RS = right side. It is exceedingly critical to always be conscious of what side you are knitting on; in particular when cable stitches or other special line of work stitches are being used.

#7 — St st – now, doesn’t that look redundant! Actually, it stands for Stockinette stitch, which is the signature stitch of knitting! When you knit one row, then purl the next, and do those two rows over and over, you are knitting the Stockinette stitch.

#6 — K2tog – means “knit 2 together.” You may be decreasing stitches on a row, or making “holes”, so to speak; whatsoever it is, k2tog will support get the occupation done. Holes, in knitting, make your work take on an openwork look, or a lace design.

#5 — YO – means to “yarn over.” Again, when knitting lacy patterns which call for an openwork design, the YO is front- page stuff! In fact, YO is the very essence of openwork design.

#4 — BO – means to “bind off.” Once in a while you will see it as “cast off”; they both mean the same thing. When you are finished with your knitting, you will BO all the stitches on the needle and commence your finishing techniques.

#3 — CO – means to “cast on.” This is your foundation row, where you start out your knitting. Any time you begin a new segment to your knitting project, you will always start out with CO.

#2 — P – is for purl. The purl stitch is, of course, “knitted” into the front of your needle, and the yarn is also held to the front. Some beginners find the purl stitch a little harder to work than the knit stitch. With practice, the purl stitch is a breeze!

#1 — K – is for knit. The knit stitch is what it’s all about! A simple stitch into the back of the needle, combined with other stitch variations will make the most divine creations under the sun! Knitting each row gives you what is called the garter stitch, not be mistaken with that harmless, backyard snake!

So, there you have it!

These Top Ten knitting abbreviations only make up the most common, and usual abbreviations. Knitting has a large total more where they come from!

Until next time, ready, set, knit!!

Copyright 2006 Alice Seidel

Knit Top

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Knit Top

Knit Top Photo

Knit Top

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Knit Top

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Fabulous book
I grew up looking at my Russian grandmother knit everything from the top down. In fact, like numerous Russians, she’s never even considered knitting from the bottom up. I myself have always been too afraid and lazy to bother with calculations, so I followed printed patterns. I don’t find grafting and weaving difficult, but at the same time I found that adding seams to babies’ and kids’ garments is unappealing. If yarn is bulky, and the size is small, seams become obtrusive. So, I got B. Walker’s book, read it from cover to cover, and now I am knitting a skirt from it for my little daughter. The book is perfectly clear and comprehensive without being too wordy. My only “complaint” is that it has no pictures of actual garments, only diagrams. I would have loved to see numerous pictures of the described designs.

Beginners, take note – this book assumes that you know how to cast on, cast off, increase, decrease, etc. If still unfamiliar with basic techniques, you will need another intro book.

Why knit from the top down?
EVERYONE begins a sweater from the ribbing up, right? Wrong, Barbara Walker takes you through a method to get started from the neck down. This isn’t just to be contrary, there are definitive gains to knitting top down.

One thing you may do is check the length while attempting it on. Yes, you may do this. Put the not finished stitches on a strand of yarn and slip the sweater over your head (or the head of the recipient.) You will quickly see how much more you need to knit, or whether you must add “short rows” (extra half rows that add a bit of ease) to cover a tummy or get rid of the dreaded riding up in the back. The book has methods for saddle shoulder sweaters (easy the top down way), raglan, drop sleeves, etc.

The book also has outstanding methods for doing leggings, tights, skirts and other items you might want to knit but don’t recognise how to. With a simple gauge-and-circumference technique you may make closely any garment for anyone.

This is a revised edition. The primary had a great deal of very dated 70′s patterns and the new edition has been modernized.

Knitters, Take Control of Your Craft!
Reading this book has helped me to grow from a “blind follower” of others’ patterns to a thinking knitter. I despise fininshing knitted garments and have been competent to stay clear from all but the most unimportant finishing tasks by using Walker’s seamless designs. The designs are without apparent effort adapted to fit any person from infant to adult ( and I ought to recognise — I have four children ranging in age from 18 mos. to 11 years!). Walker’s books are valuable to knitters.

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